All About Retaining Walls - Concrete Retaining Walls and Decorative Retaining Walls

Introduction to Retaining Walls

First, a retaining wall is a structure that holds back, or "retains," lateral faces of dirt, water, or other materials. Retaining walls are used to prevent erosion or collapse of higher level ground onto a certain building, structure, or general area. The earth that is retained is often referred to as backfill. The word backfill is also used as a verb to describe placing more dirt behind a retaining wall to make the ground more level.

Retaining walls can be the answer if you are blessed (or cursed) to a contoured lot. They can turn a steep slope into a terraced yard, creating a stair step effect instead of a slope.

Retaining walls can be constructed from many different materials using many different techniques. There are several factors that influence which choice will be the best choice for each situation, including cost, height of the wall, soil characteristics, and ground water conditions.

Generally, most municipalities require that any retaining wall over four feet in height be engineered or approved by a licensed engineer. It is important to check local building codes before starting any retaining wall projects, even if it is below four feet tall. After all, retaining walls should be structurally sound before there is any thought of aesthetic appeal. The retaining wall must be able to stand up to the pressure exerted by the backfill, also called lateral earth pressure. This lateral earth pressure is a majority of the force that the retaining wall will need to bear. Lateral earth pressure is determined by studying the weight of the soil unit, slope of the soil, soil type (for plasticity and adhesion purposes with clay soil types), and ground water levels. Engineers do many calculations with these factors to determine what design to implement with the wall. To homeowners and contractors that do not want to go through engineering steps, it is generally a good rule to overdo it. Many structural methods to build retaining walls with withhold earth, at least temporarily, with a height up to four feet, are adequate, which is why most local building codes require engineering if the wall will be over four feet tall.

However, even methods that may seem adequate for retaining earth can fail if they are not built properly. Many times, it is elements below grade that can make (or break) a retaining wall. Problems including bowing, slanting, or cracking are evidence of retaining wall failure because it was not successful in retaining the dirt. Cutting costs with a bad contractor, insufficient materials, or neglecting the below grade elements can turn out to be more expensive over time if replacement or repair is necessary often or if collapse of earth causes damage to nearby structures. For example, erosion can cause foundation issues if dirt erodes from under the foundation. This is just one example how a retaining wall failure can cause expensive problems aside from the cost to repair or replace the retaining wall.

Another aspect that is often neglected or underestimated that can cause failure of a retaining wall is drainage. Inadequate drainage of retaining walls can mean that water is trapped behind the wall, adding to the weight that the wall must hold back. Usually weep holes and/or drainage pipes are used to flush rain water and ground water from behind the wall. It is important that the drainage system, whatever it be, have a filter barrier to keep dirt from clogging the drain or weep hole.

Options for Retaining Wall Materials

· Railroad Crossties - Railroad crossties, also shortened to railroad ties, can be used as a retaining wall material; however, as with most every retaining wall material, it must be installed correctly in order to be a solution. For example, most railroad tie retaining walls will need a substantial footer to tie the crossties to in order to keep the bottom from sliding out. Also, there needs to be perpendicular members placed into the ground behind the wall to keep the wall from overturning. These members, called deadmen, should be at least 1.5 times as long as the wall is high and should be placed at minimum every 6 feet or so. Because railroad ties are wood (even though they are treated most of the time), there is a risk that they may rot over time or be subject to termite infestation, which can lead to a weak wall likely to bulge or break. And, even though there are areas for water to slowly seep though, it is still a good idea to have a filtered drain or weep holes designed into the wall.

· Treated Wood - Treated wood retaining walls offer many of the same risks as retaining walls because over time it is susceptible to rot and termite infestation. It is a labor intensive construction, but it is usually lightweight and decently strong if built correctly. It is recommended to build a concrete footer to attach the wall to in order to keep it from shifting. Construction usually requires a clear area to be backfilled after the wall is built, so it is not always the best material to use if you are replacing an existing retaining wall. This wall still needs weep holes or drains designed into the wall. Standing water behind the wood will only increase risk of rot.

· Concrete - Concrete is a great material to use for retaining walls. Of course, there is a right and a wrong way to build a concrete retaining wall, which makes choosing your contractor a big job. There are many different designs that can lead to a successful concrete retaining wall, but one thing is for sure: there needs to be a footer beneath the wall to ensure success. Concrete is one of the most durable man-made products known to man. Most concrete poured today is engineered to last for over 50 years. Plus, concrete offers many decorative options as well. Aside from a plain, white concrete retaining wall, you can also pour a colored concrete retaining wall, stain a retaining wall after it has cured, pour into a patterned form, apply a vertical stamp material and pattern after poured, etc. Sealing the concrete wall can lead to an easy-to-maintain surface that rinses free of most dirt and grime.

· Blocks or Paver Stones - Engineered blocks that stack together to make a wall must be as simple as building with Legos, right? Nope. These retaining walls should also have a significant footer in order to support not only the weight of the dirt but also the weight of the wall. These blocks can be a unique look, but it may even be necessary to place a concrete retaining wall behind the blocks if there immense lateral earth pressure. In such a case, the concrete would be the structural element, using the blocks as a visual feature.

· Rock or Brick - One of the favorite looks for a retaining wall is natural stone or brick. These materials usually look more permanent and traditionally classy. However, just as we have seen with the other materials, it is necessary to have a concrete footer below grade to carry the weight and ensure success of the retaining wall. Like architectural blocks or paver systems, it may be necessary to back a masonry retaining wall with a concrete retaining wall for structural support.

Tag : wall,retaining wall,retaining,concrete

Retaining Walls - Concrete Retaining Walls, Decorative Retaining Walls And Stone Retaining Walls

Introduction to Retaining Walls

First, a retaining wall is a structure that holds back, or "retains," lateral faces of dirt, water, or other materials. Retaining walls are used to prevent erosion or collapse of higher level ground onto a certain building, structure, or general area. The earth that is retained is often referred to as backfill. The word backfill is also used as a verb to describe placing more dirt behind a retaining wall to make the ground more level.

Retaining walls can be the answer if you are blessed (or cursed) to a contoured lot. They can turn a steep slope into a terraced yard, creating a stair step effect instead of a slope.

Retaining walls can be constructed from many different materials using many different techniques. There are several factors that influence which choice will be the best choice for each situation, including cost, height of the wall, soil characteristics, and ground water conditions.

Generally, most municipalities require that any retaining wall over four feet in height be engineered or approved by a licensed engineer. It is important to check local building codes before starting any retaining wall projects, even if it is below four feet tall. After all, retaining walls should be structurally sound before there is any thought of aesthetic appeal. The retaining wall must be able to stand up to the pressure exerted by the backfill, also called lateral earth pressure. This lateral earth pressure is a majority of the force that the retaining wall will need to bear. Lateral earth pressure is determined by studying the weight of the soil unit, slope of the soil, soil type (for plasticity and adhesion purposes with clay soil types), and ground water levels. Engineers do many calculations with these factors to determine what design to implement with the wall. To homeowners and contractors that do not want to go through engineering steps, it is generally a good rule to overdo it. Many structural methods to build retaining walls with withhold earth, at least temporarily, with a height up to four feet, are adequate, which is why most local building codes require engineering if the wall will be over four feet tall.

However, even methods that may seem adequate for retaining earth can fail if they are not built properly. Many times, it is elements below grade that can make (or break) a retaining wall. Problems including bowing, slanting, or cracking are evidence of retaining wall failure because it was not successful in retaining the dirt. Cutting costs with a bad contractor, insufficient materials, or neglecting the below grade elements can turn out to be more expensive over time if replacement or repair is necessary often or if collapse of earth causes damage to nearby structures. For example, erosion can cause foundation issues if dirt erodes from under the foundation. This is just one example how a retaining wall failure can cause expensive problems aside from the cost to repair or replace the retaining wall.

Another aspect that is often neglected or underestimated that can cause failure of a retaining wall is drainage. Inadequate drainage of retaining walls can mean that water is trapped behind the wall, adding to the weight that the wall must hold back. Usually weep holes and/or drainage pipes are used to flush rain water and ground water from behind the wall. It is important that the drainage system, whatever it be, have a filter barrier to keep dirt from clogging the drain or weep hole.

Options for Retaining Wall Materials

• Railroad Crossties – Railroad crossties, also shortened to railroad ties, can be used as a retaining wall material; however, as with most every retaining wall material, it must be installed correctly in order to be a solution. For example, most railroad tie retaining walls will need a substantial footer to tie the crossties to in order to keep the bottom from sliding out. Also, there needs to be perpendicular members placed into the ground behind the wall to keep the wall from overturning. These members, called deadmen, should be at least 1.5 times as long as the wall is high and should be placed at minimum every 6 feet or so. Because railroad ties are wood (even though they are treated most of the time), there is a risk that they may rot over time or be subject to termite infestation, which can lead to a weak wall likely to bulge or break. And, even though there are areas for water to slowly seep though, it is still a good idea to have a filtered drain or weep holes designed into the wall.

• Treated Wood – Treated wood retaining walls offer many of the same risks as retaining walls because over time it is susceptible to rot and termite infestation. It is a labor intensive construction, but it is usually lightweight and decently strong if built correctly. It is recommended to build a concrete footer to attach the wall to in order to keep it from shifting. Construction usually requires a clear area to be backfilled after the wall is built, so it is not always the best material to use if you are replacing an existing retaining wall. This wall still needs weep holes or drains designed into the wall. Standing water behind the wood will only increase risk of rot.

• Concrete – Concrete is a great material to use for retaining walls. Of course, there is a right and a wrong way to build a concrete retaining wall, which makes choosing your contractor a big job. There are many different designs that can lead to a successful concrete retaining wall, but one thing is for sure: there needs to be a footer beneath the wall to ensure success. Concrete is one of the most durable man-made products known to man. Most concrete poured today is engineered to last for over 50 years. Plus, concrete offers many decorative options as well. Aside from a plain, white concrete retaining wall, you can also pour a colored concrete retaining wall, stain a retaining wall after it has cured, pour into a patterned form, apply a vertical stamp material and pattern after poured, etc. Sealing the concrete wall can lead to an easy-to-maintain surface that rinses free of most dirt and grime.

• Blocks or Paver Stones – Engineered blocks that stack together to make a wall must be as simple as building with Legos, right? Nope. These retaining walls should also have a significant footer in order to support not only the weight of the dirt but also the weight of the wall. These blocks can be a unique look, but it may even be necessary to place a concrete retaining wall behind the blocks if there immense lateral earth pressure. In such a case, the concrete would be the structural element, using the blocks as a visual feature.

• Rock or Brick – One of the favorite looks for a retaining wall is natural stone or brick. These materials usually look more permanent and traditionally classy. However, just as we have seen with the other materials, it is necessary to have a concrete footer below grade to carry the weight and ensure success of the retaining wall. Like architectural blocks or paver systems, it may be necessary to back a masonry retaining wall with a concrete retaining wall for structural support.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/retaining-walls-concrete-retaining-walls-decorative-retaining-walls-and-stone-retaining-walls-799062.html

All About Retaining Walls - Concrete Retaining Walls and Decorative Retaining Walls

Introduction to Retaining Walls

First, a retaining wall is a structure that holds back, or "retains," lateral faces of dirt, water, or other materials. Retaining walls are used to prevent erosion or collapse of higher level ground onto a certain building, structure, or general area. The earth that is retained is often referred to as backfill. The word backfill is also used as a verb to describe placing more dirt behind a retaining wall to make the ground more level.

Retaining walls can be the answer if you are blessed (or cursed) to a contoured lot. They can turn a steep slope into a terraced yard, creating a stair step effect instead of a slope.

Retaining walls can be constructed from many different materials using many different techniques. There are several factors that influence which choice will be the best choice for each situation, including cost, height of the wall, soil characteristics, and ground water conditions.

Generally, most municipalities require that any retaining wall over four feet in height be engineered or approved by a licensed engineer. It is important to check local building codes before starting any retaining wall projects, even if it is below four feet tall. After all, retaining walls should be structurally sound before there is any thought of aesthetic appeal. The retaining wall must be able to stand up to the pressure exerted by the backfill, also called lateral earth pressure. This lateral earth pressure is a majority of the force that the retaining wall will need to bear. Lateral earth pressure is determined by studying the weight of the soil unit, slope of the soil, soil type (for plasticity and adhesion purposes with clay soil types), and ground water levels. Engineers do many calculations with these factors to determine what design to implement with the wall. To homeowners and contractors that do not want to go through engineering steps, it is generally a good rule to overdo it. Many structural methods to build retaining walls with withhold earth, at least temporarily, with a height up to four feet, are adequate, which is why most local building codes require engineering if the wall will be over four feet tall.

However, even methods that may seem adequate for retaining earth can fail if they are not built properly. Many times, it is elements below grade that can make (or break) a retaining wall. Problems including bowing, slanting, or cracking are evidence of retaining wall failure because it was not successful in retaining the dirt. Cutting costs with a bad contractor, insufficient materials, or neglecting the below grade elements can turn out to be more expensive over time if replacement or repair is necessary often or if collapse of earth causes damage to nearby structures. For example, erosion can cause foundation issues if dirt erodes from under the foundation. This is just one example how a retaining wall failure can cause expensive problems aside from the cost to repair or replace the retaining wall.

Another aspect that is often neglected or underestimated that can cause failure of a retaining wall is drainage. Inadequate drainage of retaining walls can mean that water is trapped behind the wall, adding to the weight that the wall must hold back. Usually weep holes and/or drainage pipes are used to flush rain water and ground water from behind the wall. It is important that the drainage system, whatever it be, have a filter barrier to keep dirt from clogging the drain or weep hole.

Options for Retaining Wall Materials

· Railroad Crossties - Railroad crossties, also shortened to railroad ties, can be used as a retaining wall material; however, as with most every retaining wall material, it must be installed correctly in order to be a solution. For example, most railroad tie retaining walls will need a substantial footer to tie the crossties to in order to keep the bottom from sliding out. Also, there needs to be perpendicular members placed into the ground behind the wall to keep the wall from overturning. These members, called deadmen, should be at least 1.5 times as long as the wall is high and should be placed at minimum every 6 feet or so. Because railroad ties are wood (even though they are treated most of the time), there is a risk that they may rot over time or be subject to termite infestation, which can lead to a weak wall likely to bulge or break. And, even though there are areas for water to slowly seep though, it is still a good idea to have a filtered drain or weep holes designed into the wall.

· Treated Wood - Treated wood retaining walls offer many of the same risks as retaining walls because over time it is susceptible to rot and termite infestation. It is a labor intensive construction, but it is usually lightweight and decently strong if built correctly. It is recommended to build a concrete footer to attach the wall to in order to keep it from shifting. Construction usually requires a clear area to be backfilled after the wall is built, so it is not always the best material to use if you are replacing an existing retaining wall. This wall still needs weep holes or drains designed into the wall. Standing water behind the wood will only increase risk of rot.

· Concrete - Concrete is a great material to use for retaining walls. Of course, there is a right and a wrong way to build a concrete retaining wall, which makes choosing your contractor a big job. There are many different designs that can lead to a successful concrete retaining wall, but one thing is for sure: there needs to be a footer beneath the wall to ensure success. Concrete is one of the most durable man-made products known to man. Most concrete poured today is engineered to last for over 50 years. Plus, concrete offers many decorative options as well. Aside from a plain, white concrete retaining wall, you can also pour a colored concrete retaining wall, stain a retaining wall after it has cured, pour into a patterned form, apply a vertical stamp material and pattern after poured, etc. Sealing the concrete wall can lead to an easy-to-maintain surface that rinses free of most dirt and grime.

· Blocks or Paver Stones - Engineered blocks that stack together to make a wall must be as simple as building with Legos, right? Nope. These retaining walls should also have a significant footer in order to support not only the weight of the dirt but also the weight of the wall. These blocks can be a unique look, but it may even be necessary to place a concrete retaining wall behind the blocks if there immense lateral earth pressure. In such a case, the concrete would be the structural element, using the blocks as a visual feature.

· Rock or Brick - One of the favorite looks for a retaining wall is natural stone or brick. These materials usually look more permanent and traditionally classy. However, just as we have seen with the other materials, it is necessary to have a concrete footer below grade to carry the weight and ensure success of the retaining wall. Like architectural blocks or paver systems, it may be necessary to back a masonry retaining wall with a concrete retaining wall for structural support.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tasha_Lucas

How to Build a Sturdy Retaining Wall

A retaining wall is a protective structure, first and foremost. It should be strongly built for steady support. But it can also serve as a decorative architectural element. It is this mix of beauty and functionality which any home addition should strive for.

While of course it is possible to hire a contractor to build something like this, there really is no reason as you can do this home project yourself and it will not take as long as you think and also it will save quite a few dollars when simple home additions are done on your own.

All one needs is a little drive and determination and make a plan and then stick to it. Before you know it your retaining wall will be built and you’ll be full of confidence looking for the next home project.

The first thing to do is excavate the area where we plan to put up the retaining wall. If the area is downhill, be sure to grade the soil. Drive stakes of wood into the slope and stretch across them a masonry twine.

For the base trench, dig a ditch on the higher side of the wall. Fill the ditch of our retaining wall with different colored stones and then level using a rake. Have the stones compacted together with the use of a tamper.

For the first course, we place the first base of concrete over the stones for our retaining wall. To make sure the concrete is even on all sides use a torpedo level. Continue putting concrete while leveling out stones. Wear safety gloves.

When cutting the initial block into halves (for stronger grip and vertical joints placeholders) do so with the block of each even-numbered row. Use a sledgehammer for the purpose along with a brick chisel. This is for a stronger retaining wall.

With the second course—after cutting the initial block of even-numbered rows—put the second row. Step back each block just a bit off to make sure we are making a slight backward slope to somewhat push the thing that needs support. This is what a retaining wall is for.

Then, as the wall rises, compress the earth behind it. As we fill the rear portion with earth reinforce the wall with concrete the higher it goes. Between the wall and the earth fill should be more cement mixes to increase retaining wall material strength.

For our final grading, the higher the wall goes the farther the slope is from the wall top. Fill the gap with crushed stones topped with earth. The fill level should be some inches below the wall top.

When building the retaining wall alone, opt for interlocking blocks. Take care to refill the ditch or trench right after the base or footing or foundation layer is done.

Retaining walls are best for keeping slopes like small hills or mounds beside our houses from landsliding. They’re perfect for garden landscaping and even for buttressing wall portions of our houses. Retaining wall concepts are also applied for chimney building.

Building a retaining wall helps keep our surrounding safe and supported. It keeps a steeply sloping terrain from collapsing.

Published At: Isnare Free Articles Directoryhttp://www.isnare.com
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The Appeal of a Wood Retaining Wall

A well built wood retaining wall can add to any landscape, providing both visual beauty and a high degree of safety to any sloped property. When put together correctly a retaining wall built out of landscape timbers provides as much stability as any rock or concrete block wall, with the added good looks that only wood provides. The other nice thing is the functionality that wood provides, allowing for any number of designs that can be customized for each individual landscape.

A wood retaining wall is just as durable and functional as any stone, or block wall as well as being a safe and effective way to add a dynamic feature to your landscape. Wood adds a certain luster to any landscaping project and is a great material to utilize in the yard.

It is important to properly lay out and design any retaining wall, and one made out of wood is no different. A small wall is easy for the weekend do-it-yourselfer but for a large wall that is required to hold back a large sloping area it is best to go with a professional landscape service that has experience with large and intricate retaining wall construction. This is particularly true of a terraced wall that may have stairs built into it.

Some people may question the strength of a wood retaining wall but because of the way they are built they are exceptionally strong and are able to hold back large amounts of dirt with little problem. In fact the bigger and more complex the wall the stronger it usually is. This is because each section of wall is tied together, creating a large interconnected frame work. This creates a very heavy wall that is impervious to just about anything.

If you are a homeowner with a sloping landscape then a wood retaining wall can be a great way to add a visual element to your landscape that will also add value to your whole property. When it comes to retaining walls there are many choices and wood should always be a first consideration.

To learn more about designing and building a wood retaining wall please visit the website Garden-Choices-Net.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrew_Bicknell

Stone Retaining Walls - How to Clean Them

Some people just don't' realize what 'a prize' an old stone retaining wall is on their property. Instead of letting this piece of history fall into disrepair it should be maintained or even 'spruced up'! A thorough cleaning of an old stone retaining wall can bring the wall back to life and once again add beauty to your yard and landscape.

You have to be mean to clean! - Old stone walls have years of soot and mold buildup. These stains can be tough to remove depending on how deep the mold and soot has penetrated. There can also be fungus and algae growth, as well vines or ground cover rooting into the wall. So what to do? Well you do realize that these parasites have to go! So let's get out the pressure washer and prepare for cleaning!

Use a medium size pressure washer - Is the pressure washer ready? Ok good... now... STOP!! The worst thing that you can possibly do at this point is to start the pressure washer and blow out all the joints with a high pressure spray!

In addition if you begin clean the wall without the proper soaking, you will only drive the surface soot deeper into the walls pores by wicking action making it harder to clean... so hold your horses! No... the approach that I'm going to explain to you is a little more subtle and softer.

Ok. Now begin the cleaning process by first saturating the wall. This is achieved by gently washing the wall down with a wide angle nozzle. Stand back from the wall maybe 3' - 4' and let the water flow over, around and run down the face of the wall.

Now your wall is thoroughly soaked which will allow the detergent to penetrate deeper into the wall system lifting the soot and grime away. Also a saturated wall will keep the detergent from drying out prematurely allowing it ample time to perform its' function.

The trick is to use a commercial grade degreaser - Now apply a concentrated heavy degreaser purchase from a commercial pressure cleaning supply company. Do not dilute. Pour the detergent straight from the bucket into a garden sprayer and begin to spray the wall. Make sure that every inch of wall is covered and try to keep a 'wet look' as you go. This degreaser will cost a few dollars but this is not the place to scrimp. If you want the wall cleaned buy the degreaser... simple.

Now it looks even worse! - Ok, now the wall has been soaked and the degreaser applied, so what do you do? You wait. That's right... you wait.

After about 10 - 15 minutes the wall will start to turn dark amber then a dirty brown. You will see streaks of grime dripping down the face of the wall. The wall will look terrible and you'll be worried that you screw it up! That's good. As soon as you begin to feel that it's a hopeless cause and are ready to throw in the towel, you'll know that your work is almost done!

Now that the degreaser has had a chance to work by lifting the grime, it is time to agitate it just like a washing machine. Using your 15 degree nozzle begin to hit the wall with quick, random strokes and from top to bottom. You are not looking to saturate the wall this time. As you see the soap suds appearing from the pressure of the spray, move up and down the wall and proceed along its' length.

You may do this a couple of times along the length of the wall to get the deepest cleaning possible. This agitation will dilute the degreaser to a lower viscosity and create soap bubbles that will lift the surface soot and grime away.

Ok... now you can blow it away! - After the degreaser has been agitated you can now proceed to the final step of pressure washing the wall. Beginning where you first applied the degreaser you place your wand about 12" - 16" away from the face of the wall.

You clean by watching the soot lift from the wall as you move your nozzle from joint to joint and from stone to stone. You will see the soot and grime lift away as you proceed down the wall. If a section further along looks like it is drying out too quickly then agitate again, to keep it wet until you can reach that section.

You will be amazed by how quickly years of soot, grime, mold and debris wash away. Areas with stubborn stains may require another application.

When you have finished you will step back in amazement! That old dingy wall will look new and refreshed and your job is complete. After all that hard work sit back and enjoy the beauty your restored wall provides... after all you deserve to relax!

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/diy-articles/stone-retaining-walls-how-to-clean-them-829554.html